Cappadocia from the ground and from the sky by Jessica Lee
From above, the curvaceous landscape of Cappadocia spools out to the horizon in rippling waves of rock tinged shades of blushing pink. Hot air ballooning may be big business in this geological wonderland, but don't make the mistake of thinking this is the only way to view it.
Ballooning companies such as Butterfly Balloons (www.butterflyballoons.com) and Royal Balloon (www.royalballoon.com) can get you floating high above the sinewy valleys for a visual lesson in the slow process of erosion that has moulded this region of Turkey. But Cappadocia's undulating topography is even better appreciated close up.
Walking within the furrows of the valleys is like strolling amid a storybook land. The region's conical rock formations, known locally as 'fairy chimneys', could have been plucked straight out of a child's imagination. Just as amazing as these moonscape sweeps of natural scenery is the human history that can be explored here.
Making Swiss cheese out of the surrounding cliff faces, the pigeon house architecture of Cappadocia's valleys is a vestige of the area's agricultural heritage. Delve a little further and secreted within the narrow gullies and dug out of the tor slopes of soft volcanic rock are the cave churches and hermitages used by the religious communities who made their home here during the Byzantine era.
Reputable local tour agencies Middle Earth Travel (www.middleearthtravel.com) and Heritage Travel (www.turkishheritagetravel.com) both run walking-focused tours with experienced guides whose knowledge of the region will enhance any hike. Most of the trails can also be tackled independently.
Whichever way you choose to explore, when you land back on earth after your hot air balloon ride, it's time to pull on your hiking boots and stride into the valleys themselves. To sample a great cross-section of both cultural history and natural wonder, here are three of the best valleys for walkers.
For the best combination of history and rock panoramas, hike first to Kolonlu Kilise, with its grand columned nave hidden within a sheer rock face. Then head up on to the ridge which holds the Haçlı Kilise, with its still vibrant apse fresco and huge carved ceiling cross. Afterwards, follow the trail as it leads across the high ridge, with its views across the surging curls of rock, down to the Üç Haçlı Kilise, which has an ornately carved ceiling and interesting fresco remnants.
To get here: there are several trailheads into the valleys from the northern outskirts of Göreme and past the cemetery in Çavuşin.